Carlos' grand scheme of things 5-01

"When Lehder arrived in Norman's Cay in 1978 he started purchasing large pieces of property, including a home for 

himself, a hotel and an airstrip. Shortly after Lehder began pushing the native population and vacationers off of Norman's Cay and gained full control of the island. Following Lehder's arrival air traffic over the small island began to increase and armed guards began patrolling the beaches. In July 1980 a yacht belonging to a retired couple was found drifting off Norman's Cay- blood stains were found when the boat was searched, and a corpse recovered.

As part of the Medellín Cartel, he used the island as a transshipment base for smuggling cocaine into the United States. Lehder, through Norman's Cay, is often attributed with revolutionizing drug smuggling. The typical method of transporting small shipments often carried by human drug mules, either through digestion or in their luggage, onto commercial airlines, was surpassed by the use of small aircraft shipping entire loads of cocaine.

Lehder eventually constructed a 3,300-foot (1,000 m) long runway for his fleet of aircraft. In order to protect the island, armed guards patrolled the beaches and runway, radar was employed and attack dogs. Any pilot silly enough to land there was quickly warned off by heavily armed guards. The island served a strategic point as stop for Colombian drug flights to refuel and rest before proceeding to the United States.

With the Bahamian authorities looking the other way and the local inhabitants scared off, the island became a haven of debauchery for Lehder and his associates. Carlos Toro remembers, "Norman's Cay was a playground. I have a vivid picture of being picked up in a Land Rover with the top down and naked women driving to come and welcome me from my airplane... And there we partied. And it was a Sodom and Gomorrah... drugs, sex, no police... you made the rules... and it was fun."

In 1982, under pressure from US law enforcement, and despite years of turning a blind eye, the Bahamian government began to crack down on the activities on Norman's Cay, ultimately confiscating Lehder's land. It is now a tourist destination that can be reached by charter flight."

After 5 days of gray skies and rain we were ready to check out the large plane awash between Norman Cay's southerly peninsulas. Some how this plane came to rest here during the reign of Carlos. I am sure a watery grave for this plane was not in the grand scheme of things. We were so close the other day and just didn't make it the other quarter mile. Rowing from s/v Gemini Dreams to the old dock was as expected. That is when the tide kicked in and the remaining quarter mile took 4 times as long as it should. The tide had “turned on” against us and with the 15 knot wind. We made it on shear determination as to go this far and not make it was not acceptable even if we had to circumnavigate the whole bay.

Pic Plane before and after 20 years

We hoped it would be a great experience compared to the first two planes we had seen at Staniel Cay. The 25 years or so it has been lying in the bay has taken its toll above the water line where air helps to oxidize the metal. As we entered the water the visibility was low, without a doubt the lowest we have seen yet, even in Morgans Bluff. Then there was only 10% of the life we had hoped for, possible due to the large number of “cruisers anchoring so close by and acquiring dinner. The only thing of notable size was a huge sting ray under the cockpit fuselage. A couple times around and we were bored.

We took the “express flight” back to the dock (hanging to the dinghy painter and gliding on the current that posed as our nemesis on the way out). We flew across the grass flats picking up a three conchs on the way. Oh the Fisher King is so over conch.

 It was Triton's lucky day as he was tossed back into the sea

We boarded and rowed across the channel back to where we saw grouper before the gray days. Hoping for dinner I finally made a hit with the sling to a grouper under a ledge in a coral head. He was hit well but the shaft hit the coral behind him and stopped short of getting the flopper (barb) out the other side. This left us with “what to do”. I tried to use the Fisher Kings pole spear to make another but through shot. No luck. On the second try it was a mute cause. The grouper had freed himself and disappeared deep into the coral head maze. I later saw the Fisher King pull a light lunch sized grouper out a a small coral head not far from the original.

W

Bread and Snow Days 4-27

“It was a dreary downtown day but at the end of my 30 foot leash...” Do you know where that is from? It rained a small amount today but mostly it was just overcast and gray. We managed to get to the beach and toss the football a little just to prevent another day of “trapped”. Without the sunlight snorkeling takes on the same feeling. Dark and gray. With our destination over a mile row away we just chilled out today and relaxed. Eating conch fritters and cracked conch.

The Fisher King and Boat School during the drearies

“It was a dreary downtown day but at the end of my 30 foot leash...” Day two of the grays! It gave me time to organize photos of the trip and future projects, other computer files and bake some bread. I so hope it comes out good as I have sized the recipe to what we need. It is sitting on top of the stove in it's final rising, wrapped with a blanket to protect it from the cold draft flowing through the boat. It may be the end of April but the gray days are rather cool. These are also days that the “Ugly Bird” taking up space in the lazarette would help make power ton assist the solar panels. But that is another project waiting for idle time in Florida.

We ended up making two batches of bread today, The first was half wheat flour and slightly overcooked while we are learning our temp atop the Origo. But it made a great addition to the Black Beans and Rice we had for lunch. The second was a white loaf and the aroma was awesome while baking. We have not had bread on board for three weeks! Our last shopping day Isle's was out of almost everything bread, produce and dairy. Perhaps we should have started making bread more often and we would have some tested and true recipes. Tonight we will have Spaghetti with a mushroom and tomato sauce along with herb'd oil and our newly baked bread.

In our recent attempts at Boat Breads I have decided that the same setup with our “crock and pot” will make good cakes, banana bread and oversize muffins. This will make those long days of wishing for a snack or a treat further apart. Now to work around our snorkeling and other activities for the proofing time.

“It was a dreary downtown day but at the end of my 30 foot leash...” Yada Yada Yada Those lyrics are from the B-52's if you don't know by now. Long before the “Love Shack”. Today is even worse so we are changing the mood to some Pink Floyd, Gee imagine that, Obscured by clouds.

Obscured by clouds, perhaps the greatest gray weather album of all time. I have spent many a day (and night) sliding on snow covered roads through the mountains of Western North Carolina with the tachometer bouncing on red line. Always with the camping gear stowed in the back for a night “out and about”. Today feels like a snow day from school, gray skies, wind howling, no power, cooking on an open flame and confined to a small space all while trying to stay warm. Mind you it is not cold in any way but relentless winds finally brings in the wind chill. Also the precipitation is rain and not snow.

We have been spoiled by sunny skies. It's rays converted to electricity by our pair of 135 watt solar panels. This gives us enough power on sunny days to run two computers, charge the secondary items, and even run the chart plotter. All this can be done during the peak of the sun and still bank power. But with a couple of partially cloudy days, followed by three gray days we are now at the bottom of our usable energy. So we have pulled the plug for today sitting here hand writing a rough draft of our blog, playing cards, reading and discussing “why if...”

“Why if the hobbit was so long ago they had swords and engines?”

“Why if ...”

Before out next journey we will augment out power generation with the “Ugly Bird”. That is our nick name for the wind generator we have stored in the lazerette. It is an old air-X and kind of ugly, but, it will make power on days like this. We haven't moved it higher on the list (other than the acquisition when the price was right) as our solar panels are quite! Maybe we could get a deal on or trade up to some silent air blades. (the $300+ price tag is a little steep!)

Looking back this month we have had 13 days either too windy or to rainy for us to get out and row about. There are plans to make days like this more tolerable. First is a better front hatch cover to allow air flow while raining. Second of course is the “Ugly Bird”. Watching a movie or listening to Pink Floyd sure makes a dent in cabin fever. Third redesign the bimini cover and for a complete cockpit cover that we did not get time to do last winter. Four a couple more games like chess, yatze, oigehgruehgeoi and perhaps that modified pirate monopoly game I keep wanting to assemble.

“It was a dreary downtown day but at the end of my 30 foot leash...” Obscured by Clouds, Quote the Rave, Never more. never more never more never more Oh such tales of Mystery and Imagination. Sitting here in the gray of the day. Remembering the lightening and thunder the night before. We are now getting a few drops in through the mast. My crew is so stir crazy I can hardly deal with him. All day in a gray sky heavy rain we only generate enough electricity to operate the computer for less than 3 hours. This is with an Asus eBox which only draws 20 watts maximum and the most efficient 24” monitor I could find the day I purchased it. His school has been all book work with no interactive lessons. Days like this are the largest opponent to things like a refrigerator or electric motor. But then you could always buy a Honda Generator and deal with gas for it.

“It was a dreary downtown day but at the end of my 30 foot leash...” Yes day five! My sarcastic wit is getting tired. But the good news is that the gray has shades. Dark and light giving us positive thoughts. We went back down below for an early morning game of cards. After a couple games of rummy there were shades of blue within the gray.

 W

Normans Cay 4-25

We arrived in Normans Cay after a sail in mostly light winds. We were able to head dead down wind to leave the Park. Then making a couple of course changes once around the sand bore. Then it was a path on the reach. Once around Elbow Cay the wind changed to gusty and a little more to the north. I had to take over from the autopilot to make such a course to windward. We managed to sail all the way from the park to just past Taffia Point at which time my Tinley hat was caught by one of the gusts and went for a swim. So we motored around for a couple of loops to get it close to the hull and rescued the overboard “crew”. With the motor already running we headed straight for the anchorage in front of McDuff's.

Our fuel usage is great now that we are not “beating to windward”. We motored for a half mile leaving Staniel Cay to clear a rock cay and a half mile here today. We sailed into and out of the anchorage at Warderick Wells. That equals about 1 mile out of 36-38 miles. With all the sand bore dodging and course changes I think we are doing well.

By sailing instead of motor sailing it put as sitting down in McDuff's at 3:20. Lunch is over at 3pm! McDuff graciously agreed to make us a burger anyway and lunch was in progress. But beware this burger is $18.00 (we split one). It has been the best burger yet here in the Bahamas. Large 5” sesame seed bun, lettuce, tomato all served with fries on a stoneware plate. It was only missing a linen napkin. This was a perfect “$10.00” burger. McDuff also does well with cruiser conversation and he and the Fisher King talked shells and fish. Three other cruisers showed up wanting lunch but they were out of luck as it was now 4pm, lunch was over and orders for dinner had already been taken. After getting an abbreviated weather forecast from them we headed out.

We decided to check out the other side of the peninsula as this was our snorkeling destination the next day. So off on foot we went down the beaten white limestone road. Strewn with pine trees and lizards the road headed south east. We could see the remnants of Carlos' house on the hill but didn't take the usual cruiser detour to explore. Maybe next time. We did find the current island dump at the end of the road before returning to the dock where out on the north side of the channel were anchored 8 boats. Hmmmm! Would there be any conch left when we get here tomorrow?

The next morning we awoke to a massive dark cloud between us and the sun. Early morning became a lounge around session watching the balance of “The Fellowship Of The Ring”. When it was completed we found rays of sunlight shinning randomly around us. We double checked our list, the one in my head, for snorkeling and a long dinghy ride. When all was okay off we went. From the beach anchorage to the dock is slightly more than a mile. We are used to a mile row at marathon but here in the Bahamas it is different. There are tidal currents, winds and endless bars and shallow rocks all making it longer or more difficult. Once we made it to our “charted destination” (thanks s/v Way Happy) we anchored a little off the dock.

can you find the conch shell

We anchored in one of the largest grass flats we have encountered here in the Bahamas. We snorkeled out from the dinghy a long way to the NE then South with no luck. Then as the Fisher King was starting to request passage to the dock to try his luck with a spear we found our first conch. Then another and another. We returned to the dinghy to unload the bounty. I requested one more swim South of the last conch we found and then the dock. The Fisher King agreed. We found our limit on conch and then some. Filling the dinghy as the load was getting to heavy to stay afloat and carry them in hand. We even found a large horse conch. At the dock there were a couple of lion fish and a small grouper. But the grouper eluded us, hiding inside a huge derelict control console from a large power boat. We did find a banded tulip shell for the collection of the King's new found interest.

Collection of conch shells in the dinghy

Stop number two was on the small cay with a single palm tree. Such a picturesque place. There are a couple of dedications here one in stone and one on the resting bench. We stretched our legs and got some time to relax. Or at least I thought we would... the Fisher King was impatient wanting to snorkel for more shells and nothing here pleased him.

We rowed over to the next cay which was only about 75 to 100 feet. The Fisher King went over the side and started his search as a powered the chase boat. After placing a couple of flamingo tongues into the dinghy his next trip down was followed by the wide eyed yell coming from his snorkel, “Brrooopooor!”. Which translates into “Grouper!” So with the chance for fresh fish again, it has been a while, I put on my fins and went in with him. Now to find a place to set the anchor in the high current zone. Once set and partially protected in a small cove (25' x 10') we went off in search for fresh fish. We found a couple more conch before finding any grouper. After coral watching for a short while The Fisher King motioned that a something was behind the next coral head. Being unable to see from my angle I assumed it was a grouper from his intensity. I slowly circled and was just able to see the face of a lunch sized grouper peering out of a hole in the coral. I slowly drifted out of his site and moved to come in from the best angle for attack with the sling. I have still yet to take a grouper with the sling as most of our adventure the pole spear was acceptable. But now in the land of small, afraid for their lives, groupers I decided the sling with it's “bow and arrow” approach could get me more shots at our food supply. I slowly came in range and he sat motionless as I released the shaft. A direct hit from 6-7 feet away! I finally hit a grouper with the sling. We have lunch! While taking a few more minutes to hunt dinner The King and I both found dinner sized grouper at the same time in different places. Neither of us could get a shot before they retreated deep into the coral heads.

I got into the dinghy and pulled the anchor as The Fisher King kept looking for shells. As I arranged the conch shells to make room for both of us and the booty of today's hunt I noticed a dark shadow nearing the dinghy. After a couple of moments it was clear that is was not a 5 foot barracuda but a 6-7 foot shark. I quickly turned and tried to get The Fisher King's attention, which took a few seconds. Once I had his attention I told him to go to the rock where I anchored the dinghy and get on top of it and I would pick him up. Once in the dinghy I pointed out the new friend we had acquired. Of course he was checking out the small blood trail from the grouper, which was amazing as the head shot had very little blood. The original concern was that it was a tiger shark because as the light shown through the water it make stripes across his torso. After seeing the images from the GoPro it is but a reef shark, still requiring our respect, but not as apt to attack as the more aggressive species. So with Tin out of the water we were able to take a few portraits of our new friend as we sorted out the conch and tossed some of the smaller ones back. Today's catch 16 conch (six of which got tossed back a being the small one of the group to keep us at the limit of 10), one grouper and a tulip shell.

 During all the adventures of the day we forgot to check out the submerged airplane. Oh well that can be another adventure.

 W

Exumas Land and Sea Park 4-20

We sat anchor for 3 days waiting for the passage of a front. The time in Staniel Cay had changed our attitude, especially the attitude of The Fisher King. After even three days of being boat ridden he still was “When can we snorkel?” instead of “I hate this place!”. With time passing and me getting the feeling of the need to move on it was nice to see the patience he was having. So we stayed for him to snorkel the coral heads near the anchorage and emerald island.

While talking about the anchorage I must inform you that we have been here when the park officials demand that a couple of sailboats move from behind the mooring field. Not too politely from word of the grape vine but that is subjective. Also as previously mentioned they will not sell internet activity without a paid mooring. At this point in time I have to conclude that Warderick Wells has become unfriendly to the budget cruiser. The official anchorage is now only on the west side but outside the white vertical floats that say “no anchoring” once you are close enough. The one boat that actually hailed the office and asked for anchorage information was told that near wogfo9whgeurh was the anchoring field. This is over a mile and a half from the ranger station.

The following is only ¼ the distance. N 24 23.156 W 76 37.889 is where we anchored. In sand partially protected by the sand bore to the NW but wide open to the SW. There is 6' of water all the way to within 100 feet of Warderick bore near the “no anchor” line posted by the floats. You can get very close to the park, a lot closer than the south mooring field, to anchor and place your placard on Boo Boo Hill. It is pure sand with excellent holding. The coral heads near Emerald Rock are marked with round dinghy moorings. Our eight nights (total for both stays) there cost us nothing compared to being on a mooring for $200.

During our time snorkeling we expected to see some of the best “life” in the Exumas. It was more populated and we did see the largest Lion Fish yet. We also part of the largest lobster we have seen. He must have been 8 pounds or better and all we could see was part of him down in the coral. The Fisher King was sad but expected it when I made him set the tulip shell free.

Overall we will rate the Exumas Land and Sea Park a 5 for us on a scale of 1-10. Too many restrictions , no supplies available, moorings have taken all the protected anchorages at Warderick, and you have to pay for a mooring to get to pay for internet. Maybe our attitude will change before we come back but we have enjoyed all of our other stops more!

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly April 2012

Being a Gemini you get to see the good and bad in all situations,  Problem is that you can't alway see what you really want at first.  You may buy a Kayak thinking of great fishing, simple tender, or easy handling.  When you actually use the Kayak it is heavier than you expected, too big to store, and just plain hot on a windless day.  Being able to see all this is why our little boat doesn't have one on the deck like so many other cruisers, most with a little larger main boat.  We do have a seat and paddle for our future Kayak but we couldn't justify the 13 foot mass on our decks for the journey.

So where is this post heading you ask?  It is a reality check on equipment for the beginning cruiser, at least from our point of view.  Most die hard cruisers have become so accustom to their choices and upgraded to their preferences that they are just second nature or assumed.  We being so new to cruising it is a major decision every time we make a choice.  With some of our choices being a total waste of cash there will be plenty to "suggest" you avoid the same mistakes.  So we will randomly post both a "good" and a "bad" item we have chosen to evaluate.

The Good... T-top Canvas:  Before I moved onto the boat I found at a sharp discount a T-top canvas with grommets all the way around.  This has been excellent!  When at anchor it goes over the mast with four bungee cords and makes extra protection from the sun and rain over the companion way all the way to the bimini top.  When under way it can be a quick spray shield or sun shield.  When going by the everglades last year I put it up as a side curtain on the bimini to block the hot sun.  It has also done time as the front hatch cover last year when we needed an AC unit during the heat of the summer.  I sure there are other uses just waiting to be found.  This is a best buy item for a small sailboat!  Now if I had one a foot wider and 6 feet longer to dedicate to the mast at anchor.

The Bad... ATN top climber:  I will give it credit as to when I went up the mast in Morgan's Bluff for a few minutes it was not as bad as I remember from last year.  But at a whopping $475.00 There should be a Blonde Amazonian stuffed in the bag to help you up the mast.  The basic gear can be purchased from a climbing specialty store for less than a third, maybe even less than a quarter of this prefabricated kit.  It will get you up the mast single handidly without much effort since your wallet will be so light.  But beware of you foot control on the way up you will put scratches and scrapes into your annodized mast.  If you can sew then make your own web ladder and buy a harness to clip into for safety.   If it was only $150.00 or less it would be moved over to the good pile.

The Ugly...  Davis Windscoop:  I love and hate this item.  First it increases the air flow substantially. That is as long as it faces the wind.  You ask "why wouldn't it face the wind?"  Tides would be the answer to that question.  If the tide over powers the wind (ie 2 knts tide and 10 knots wind or less) you are suddenly abreast the air flow and it is like turning on the heat.  Then in a few hours you get the breeze again.  I have tried endlessly to counter act this by moving the bottom four attachment points as needed but it gets to be a pain.  Then when the wind over powers the tide and it works, it works too good making a gail force wind rip through the cabin. Over the last year the seams have done well but the little wooden dowel that keeps the scoop open and ready to catch all the wind is way to fragile.  I replaced my with a piece of batten stock which I have lost over the last two months and am using it without.  This makes catching a small breeze even less of a chance.  A way to make dedicated port, bow, and starboard facing attachments may lessen the head ache of chasing he wind over the tide. It has stood up to 50 knts and is still alive! But seriously it is very ugly!  One made of nice navy rip-stop with improved attachments would be great.


W

Pigs on the wing 4-13

If you didn't care what happened to me,

And I didn't care for you

We would zig zag our way through the boredom and pain

Occasionally glancing up through the rain

Wondering which of the buggers to blame

And watching for pigs on the wing.

Pigs (three different ones)

You know that I care what happens to you,

And I know that you care for me.

So I don't feel alone,

Or the weight of the stone,

Now that I've found somewhere safe,

To bury my bone.

And any fool knows a dog needs a home,

A shelter from pigs on the wing.

We made it to Big Majors Cay today!  We rowed from the anchorage at Staniel ALL the way to "Pig Beach" or what ever it is called and then on around Big Major!  We got surprised by a rain storm and big waves while on the north east side.  But I kept rowing as the Fisher King scolded me for getting him wet.  We had hopes of snorkeling on the north channel and getting some dinner but with the rain we just kept going to get back to the boat.  After all it was open, both the hatch and the companion way. in the rain.   As I sit here listening to Pink Floyd and writing this blog it is great to be out on an adventure with my son.

 Sharks and Elk Horns

 the Fisher King loves caves

Below are some photos from yesterdays row to the south channel here at Staniel Cay.  We took  a few moments at the sunken plane.

Tida Wave and Lady Muriel the local racing boats
waterboarding kayak great loop berzerk

W

s/v Gemini Dreams TV episode I

Well we have been getting random decent internet connections so we are trying to upload a couple or three videos we have taken recently.  So welcome to s/v Gemini Dreams TV and keep a watch out for further episodes.  

Nurse sharks at Staniel Cay

Thunderball Grotto

W

The Royal Bahamian Pain in the Arse

We I have been stretching out the pain in the arse (we'll use that term since the Bahamas were so English for so long) story for some time.  I'll try to keep is short.  Feel free to laugh.  Oh and I promise no photos oh my naked arse.

Try conveying the Message "Your son is safe, I am on IV pain killers and antibiotics in a clinic"  by using Facebook to the mother of an 11 year old that has not seen him in over 3 months!  If you are lucky there will be a phone nearby.


Below is a chronicle of the events


Day one  3-26:  Allens Cay:  I think a horse fly bit my Arse as Tin has multitudes of bite marks on his upper body.  He learned, I think, about shirts and afternoons in Morgan's Bluff.  We left Morgan's a couple days ago so maybe it is just showing up.  I did do some sail work in one of the outdoor buildings in the Regatta Park.

Day two   3-27:  It is still “bugging” me

Day three   3-28:  Okay this is unusual.  Did I get spider bit?  I start applying “black tar” to help remove the poison if there is any.  Damn this black tar smells!

Day four  3-29:  Normans Cay:  “Man this hurts!” cried my brain as I sat into the dinghy to row to shore. 

Day five   3-30:  “Hmmm, No wind to sail I am just going to lie here and suffer” 

Day Six   3-31: Sail to Exumas land and sea Park:  Sitting sideways in the cockpit chair. 

Day Seven   4-1:  Suffer though it and go to Boo Boo Hill to do the drift wood.  Ask about internet to check on spider bite information.  You have to have a mooring so it is $35 a day for internet.  I'm too cheap so more suffering.  The information wouldn't beam a doctor here even if I knew Scotty.  Try to decide if I should take either of the antibiotics I have on board.  Both of the on-board manuals say crap about spider bites.  I finally find my copy of “where there is no doctor” and it has crap about spider bites!  I am now trying to remember what I researched over a year ago just in case I made it to Central America. Which is why I have the black tar in the first place.  I pass on starting antibiotics.  Fever of 101.

Day Eight   4-2:  No wind!  Cry “UNCLE” and radio EL&SP and ask if a Medic was on staff.  NO!  Nearest is at Staniel Cay.   Tin says “I hate this place!”  I am offered a Dinghy Ride to Staniel tomorrow by another cruiser but I have no way back.  And fearing the pain involved in a 13 mile dinghy ride I have to pass!   Fever of 102 tonight.  Thinking about antibiotics again but put it off since we will be in Staniel tomorrow.  I hope!   For reference there is no nurse or doctor between Nassau and Staniel Cay.  If it is you lucky day there may be one on a cruising boat that may volunteer to help.  It wasn't my lucky day

Day Nine   4-3:  Wake up nauseated and dizzy!  Dry heaving overboard!  We motor to Staniel Cay and find the Clinic Closed!  When the operators of the Pink Grocer ask why I was walking so, I explained I may have been spider bit.  They asked if I went to the Clinic.  After I told them it was closed they called for me and said to go back by she would be there soon.  THANKS!  By now this was an actual volcano shaped swelling on my arse.  It had a base diameter of a golf ball and half as high.  There was drainage from the top and my whole check was rock hard.  Stressing as what this would do to our cruising budget made things even worse.  There was a minimum fee of $30 just for the visit.  As the nurse finished her initial exam and placed an IV needle in my arm the cash register just kept going Ca-ching, Ca-ching.  First there was the IV antibiotics, then the IV pain killers, then the week of oral antibiotics, the week of  anti-inflammatory meds, the dressings, the pads and everything else from the visit, then the discussion of lancing the infection and flying back to the USA!   OMFG!  The Ca-ching was quickly in the thousands and my boat would be unattended in the Bahamas!  Then the medical costs in the USA.  Then getting back to the boat! OF!  I think I need to add blood pressure and ulcer meds to the list now.  And we didn't even get to snorkel in Thunderball Grotto! 

About the time she started the IV pain killers the local doctor couple came in to check on my condition.  (The nurse had called and set up possibly lancing the infection tomorrow with them).  So it was down with the shorts again and the couple being so polite asked if I would mind them examining the infection. I was thinking “Do you know how bad this is hurting now?  I would walk naked through town and draw stuff in chicken blood to make it better!” After all the full moon is close!  They agreed with the initial exam as not a spider bite just an infected follicle or pore.  They said (after much prodding and poking which translates to DAMN F*&%^NG PAINFUL) that after seeing several points of drainage lancing wouldn't be needed.  Awesome, no lancing means no flying home!  We are back to just what it costs today and for follow ups!  Better but not good.  

While I waited for the last IV to finish I asked to use the Clinic internet to contact home.  It was great to get a response right away instead of having to leave a message and check later for a response.  I was trying to convey “I think” it is going to be okay by Facebook messenger and finally gave up and sent the phone number for the Clinic.  Now by phone is was simpler to fill in all the blank spaces.  So what was the total for all the above IV's and the visit?  Sixty-six dollars!  That would have easily been $660 in the USA and if you would have had insurance they may have admitted you for the night making it closer to $6600. 

I find out that on day three if I would have taken the broad spectrum antibiotics and the black tar together I may have avoided the escalation of the infection.  At that time I saw no reason, next time Oh yes to antibiotics for anything close to this.

Day Ten  4-4:  With all the IV's, pills and a hot soak last night the drainage has increased immensely.  During today's recheck  a combination tweezers/clipper apparatus has turned the volcano shape into a Florida sink hole.  My arse looks like it has a gun shot wound!  But the rock hard muscle is now relaxed and the local swelling is going down.  It is still uncomfortable to sit though.  The removal of dead muscle tissue, packing the wound, new bandages, and the visit today was $10

Day Eleven  4-5:  A day to relax and rest.  Swelling is down and pain is less

Day Twelve 4-6: A second day to rest.  Reevaluate float plan while bored!  This is now looking like this is our turn around spot and George Town will have to wait until next time!  We will just take time going back up the Exumas and do some of the things I didn't feel like doing on the way down.

Day Thirteen  4-7:  I am bleeding more today and oozing less!  I am also very dizzy today.  I had to look straight up at the boom once to stop the world from spinning.  Or was it my head turning around?  At least I wasn't tossing cookies.   Recheck day, more prodding and poking, snips with the meat hook, repacking and re-bandaging!  Also a weeks worth of high dose Vitamin C tabs!  Today's visit was NO CHARGE!  Prognosis is I am healing.  Arse still to tender to sit at a bar stool or wooden bench and I am still using a life jacket as a cushion in the dinghy (the neck hole works great!)

Day Fourteen 4-8:  Easter Sunday Facebooked with home and got a burger at the Purple restaurant. 

Day Fifteen  4-9:  We went to Thunderball today as I have a check up tomorrow at the clinic.  This way I get checked out after the first swim since she cut chunks out of my flesh.  .

Day Sixteen  4-10:  Todays visit was short and to the point, of the clippers that is.  Removing more tissue and re-bandaging me.  I have to come back tomorrow to get another round of antibiotics as there were none in the clinic. Other than that all seems to be healing well.  It should be closed over in a week or so.

It was suggested that we check at Nassau when we pass in 4 days, but since that isn't our sail plan we will spend a little more healing time here.  I hope to be able to get into the water soon without stress of infection.  That way we can take some time and do some make up snorkeling on the way back.  We should be back in Florida by June.

If anything significant happens or I have a relapse I will update this time line but, for now, this story is done.  A tleast I think it should be.

Yes during all this I still have to handle the boat, row us to shore, cook for us both and do what is needed.   Tin has been great and makes tuna sandwiches for lunch when I ask him to.   He has also started doing the dishes once again to help out.  After a full week he no longer asks what he did wrong every time I gasp for air or make a sound when I move.  He has been a great doctor when I need him to do a specific chore to help out.  Now instead of “I hate this place” I keep hearing “When we win the Lotto and get an Island Packet, a jet ski, a fridge, a microwave......”  progress is progress.

Update: While getting my board shorts ready for another dive I noticed a cut in exactly the same location as the infection.  I never felt a thing until it was too late.

Whatever did this sure was a pain

W

Shaken!, not stirred. 4-9

Hanging on the wall at SCYC

In 1965 the filming of the latest James Bond 007 movie came to Staniel Cay.  The Staniel Cay Yacht Club still keeps the photos on the wall.  It is their claim to fame, still today, 48 years later.  A grotto carved out of the limestone by waves and loose rock over a millennium.   Water never sleeps!  Today it is a wonder step back into natural landmarks of old.  You get exactly what you are wanting.  You get to see the grotto with out the on site tourist t-shirt shop pushing you to buy shirts.  You get to see the grotto without guard rails or warning signs that you might get eaten by a shark.  You didn't even have to pay some tourist cattle boat to ferry you over, well some do.  The only restriction to assist in preservation is “No Fishing”  I am waiting on the the Fisher King to get in his mood over such rules.  


Luckily the mood never came.  We snorkeled not only inside the grotto but also around the island.  This is the best snorkeling we have seen so far in the Bahamas.

Cathedral Ceiling

We took a lap around the island too

 Not a bad pic for the go pro

 Bahamian Flounder with it's blue markings

The brains of the operation?

 A port hole a viewed from within

 Having issues with pics like this coming out good with the GoPro, too much movement and low light

 The canyon that leads out the north end of the grotto

 Even inside a cave Sargasso holds fish

Color is everywhere in the shallow water

just south of the entrance on the outside

Rare photo of the captain

We also have some Videos but need a better connection to upload them

W